How to remove a bike wheel

Standard Removal

The common way to remove a bike tire is to start by taking off the valve cap. On the side opposite the valve, place a tire lever beneath the edge of the tire, known as the bead. Pull down to try and pry the tire up off the bead. You might also try to latch onto a spoke, providing more leverage.

Hold the bike by handlebars in one hand, while the other hand should hold the wheel on the ground. Place the fork dropouts in line with the axle on the front wheel. Place the axle into the dropouts by pushing the bike down into the axle to ensure that the wheel is in alignment with the dropouts.

For non–quick release wheels, loosen the axle nuts and center the wheel, then tighten the nuts fully. 8. Inspect the brake alignment to make sure it’s not rubbing. If the brake is rubbing or not centered, it’s usually because the wheel isn’t centered so loosen it and try again.

Lay the bike on its left side. Drip Liquid Wrench or similar on the end of the axle and let it seep into the threads. Unscrew. Next time grease the threads and go easy on the torque.

If it’s a front hub and your fork uses a QR, you can buy a new thru–axle hub and an adapter that lets you use a thru–axle hub in a QR fork. About $15 for the adapter. This will give a fractionally better bit of firmness, but primarily, if you change your fork down the road, you can get one with thru–axle.

A thru–axle (TA) is a wheel attachment system that secures a wheel on a hub between a pair of dropouts on a bicycle frame or fork. The thru–axle threads directly through the fork/frame holes and into the wheel hub, which makes the wheel secure from detaching.

Thru axles are safer- This is probably the biggest benefit for the average cyclist. Thru axles improve safety by making it nearly impossible for the front wheel to come out of the dropouts while you’re moving. The dropouts can’t lift off of the axles vertically because they have holes instead of a u-shaped slots.

Thru axles takes the industry by storm

So instead of u-shaped dropouts, they designed dropouts with holes and beefed up the axle. The thru axle threads directly through the fork holes and the wheel hub. This makes it nearly impossible for the wheel to detach. Thru axles are safer and improve bike performance.

Example of how to measure Thru Axle specifications.

From this specification we know 142mm is the hub width (or frame spacing) and 12mm is the diameter of the axle. Total Thru Axle length from the seat to the end of the threads.

Increasing numbers of road bikes have wheels with bolt-through axles. The advantages are increased stiffness between the frame, fork and the wheels, and they make correct wheel alignment easier, especially if the bike uses disc brakes. Here’s how to remove and fit wheels equipped with through-axles.

Most thru–axles are described by four measurements, and you might see them described something like this: 15 x 100mm, 127 length, 1.5. In this example, 15mm is the diameter, 100mm is the O.L.D., 127mm is the overall length and 1.5mm is the thread pitch.

At the front, road bike thru–axles are now pretty much standardised at 100mm long by 12mm wide (although some early thru–axle road bikes had 15mm diameter thru–axles). Rear thru–axles usually measure 142mm long and have a 12mm diameter, but you used to be able to find a few bikes with 135mm thru–axles.

The standard MTB rear axle dimensions are 135x5mm (for a QR rear hub) but jump and gravity bikes may use wider and thick axles for extra strength and stiffness, with the available sizes being 135×10, 142×12, 150×12, 157×12 and 165×12. Ensure your rear hub is the correct size to fit your frame.